Williams Bros, Gonny No Brew That! (Scotland) From several of the shortlisted bottles in Sainsbury's 'Great British Beer Hunt' 2013 this summery, light beer is by no means the most unusual or immediately intriguing, but having worked my way slowly through a bottle it became increasingly moreish, increasingly impressive for its subtle, low-key complexity. It pours a fresh pale gold with a moderate white head, with immediate aromas of citrus and grassiness, a subtle biscuit in the background. With only 3.8% abv it is keen and agile on the palate, totally driven by the chicory and oily hop bite of the finish that plays against sweeter malt and fruit notes, but which dominates to leave this tangy, satisfying and bone-dry. A lovely session beer that may not be flashy, but which has intelligent staying power. 3.8% ABV, 50cl, �1.50, Sainsbury's.