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I'm afraid I will be accused of being boringly predictable, but the new release of Vintage Ale from London brewers Fuller's is always eagerly awaited, and the 2005 edition does not disappoint. As always it is a strong, complex beer made for cellaring, and edged out some other fine seasonal winter beers to scoop Beer of the Month for December.

Fullers, Vintage Ale 2005 (England)
This young beer needs time, but for now, it pours a brilliant dark ruby, with a pillowing, creamy off-white head. The nose is crammed with powerful, vinous notes of red fruits, herbs and earthy, warming scents. There is a rich maltiness, and a green tea-like hoppy note in the mix. On the palate it is huge: sumptuous in texture, a creamy, sweet-edged barrage of malty flavours fills the mouth, but all tinged by that characteristic bitter edge of chicory and liquorice, with hints of burnt caramel, sweet red fruits and delicious complexity. I have no doubt this vintage ale is well up to Fuller's terrific standard, and it will get better and better. Buy six and open one every year or so for a fascinating lesson in aged beers, and some wonderful drinking pleasure. Available from November 2005 in a limited edition. 8.5% ABV, 50cl, ?2.99, brewery website, Waitrose.

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