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Beer of the Month goes to an absolutely brilliant beer, the limited edition Vintage Ale, produced by London brewer Fuller's annually since 1997. Each year the recipe of this strong, extraordinarily complex beer changes, but the one thing that doesn't is the strength (a heady 8.5% ABV) and the quality. Beautifully packed too, distribution may be slightly limited, but it is stocked by both Waitrose and Sainsbury's in the UK.

Fullers, Vintage Ale 2004 (England)
The brewmaestros of Chiswick must love the opportunity to brew this no-expense-spared supreme beer each vintage. Opened in March 2005, my bottle is number 35,696 of the annual edition of around 50,000. It pours a deep mahogany colour, with a moderate cappuccino-coloured head. The nose has a wine-like complexity, with damson fruit, bruised apples, lots of liquorice-toffee malt and a twist of hops. On the palate it has a thick, creamy texture and unguent quality, with a massive chicory-like bitterness and rounded, chewy, toffee and chocolate caramel sweetness playing against each other. There is a deep, deep reservoir of power and complex flavours in this magnificent beer that is crying out to be cellared. 8.5% ABV, 50cl, �2.99, Sainsbury's, Waitrose.

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